It was my first time in India during the monsoon season. The rain would normally start at about 6.30 every morning. With barely a minute’s drizzle, it would suddenly be coming down in an almighty torrential downpour, hammering down on the temporary tin rooftops that cover the open air courtyards and rising to ankle deep level in the street. Within the grounds of Radha Gopinath temple, an oasis in the heart of the busy city, it was wonderful to watch it wash the leaves of the kadamba and tamal trees, sending the birds high up into the shelter of the canopies.

Our week was a little more relaxed than the previous one, after the intensity and high energy surrounding the book launch. We had some opportunities to visit local pilgrimage spots. Not far from the temple is Banganga, a huge water tank said to be fed by an unexplainable water source. The water is considered non different from the holy Ganges and it is also said that Shri Chaitanya, the founder of kirtan, came here to bathe and pay his respects hundreds of years ago. We dropped some of the water on our heads, and explored the village streets around the tank. Despite being so close to the middle of the city, the atmosphere was rural, with geese running here and there, and old temples squeezed between every few houses. Just as we were about to leave, a middle aged woman with a bright face approached us and practically begged us to come to her temple down the road.
‘Please,’ she pleaded, ‘You come see my Lord. You will like very much.’
We followed, a little hesitantly. She led us into a tiny dark stairway, and up a small flight of water logged steps.’Be careful, your head,’ she warned as we ducked under the low doorway.

We found ourselves in a room the size of a closet, where an old man lay on a string cot. He jumped up when we entered, welcoming us in broken English. They both ushered us into the adjoining room, where to our surprise, a beautiful, black stone deity of Lord Balarama, Krishna’s brother stood. The lady explained that the deity had been in her family for generations, and right now, just her and her father cared for him. As her father sat us down and eagerly served out blessed food from the deity (Indian tea biscuits and rock candy!) she told us the story of their life and in suprisingly good English, explained how she wanted to build a three storey temple here, so that many people would be attracted to come and worship Lord Balarama. We were enlivened by her devotion and touched to unexpectedly see the old deity – in kirtan, we always pray to Lord Balarama, as he is represented by all of the instruments used to glorify Lord Krishna.

Other highlights of the week included getting to know many sincere and devoted members of the community; seeing, hearing and driving through the raucous Ganesh Chaturthi festivities that put the city at a standstill as countless processions take to the streets; and getting to enjoy many wonderful early morning kirtans with the Chowpatty temple residents. Their enthusiasm has rightly gained a reputation, and their spontaneous dancing has to be seen to be believed!

The week came to a close with two events. First, a youth evening at Shanmukananda Hall, a 2500 seater auditorium which was filled with 3000 students for the duration of the evening! We were blessed to have many accomplished musicians from the community join us on stage, including Rupa Manjari singing, our friend Rupa Manjari (number two!) from Florida, playing piano, and Prabhu Gouranga, a senior student of Hariprasad Chaurasia, playing bamboo flute. Ananta Nitai and Bhakta Gauranga from the local temple kirtan band completed the group.

The next day was Radhastami, the holy birthday of Shri Radha, Lord Krishna’s eternal companion. Early in the day, after a thunderous morning kirtan, we got to do a special thank you kirtan for all of the staff of ‘Govinda’s’. This on-site restaurant serves hundreds of delicious dishes daily, including stone baked pizza that has an incredibly Italian flavour (almost unheard of in India). During our stay the staff had served us every day, doing everything possible to make us comfortable and cared for. Now we joined with them in singing the names of Krishna and Radha, who is the patron goddess of all who cook for Lord Krishna.

Later in the day, there was time for a few more hours of kirtan, as the deities were ceremonially bathed with susbstances such as coconut water, honey and fresh fruit juice. Hands were raised, bodies whirled, and every voice called out with great sincerity and joyful abandon, especially when Radhanath Swami joined us in leading the kirtan. We knew we had to leave at 9pm to make our flight back to London. By 9.20, we were still in the thick of the kirtan – we couldn’t even see the doorway and the balconies on either side of the room were packed with bodies. By 9.30, we had to drag ourselves away, completely overwhelmed by the spiritual mood of the day, and the incredible devotional attitude of everyone we came into contact with during the magical two weeks.